Aste Nagusia - The Great Week of Bilbao

It’s nothing new that the cultural exchange, especially between states of the Europen Union, is more than important. It’s good to see that young people get involved. In 2014 60.000 youngsters from Germany and almost 50.000 young people from Spain participated in EVS (source: http://ec.europa.eu/education/library/statistics/ar-statistical-annex_en.pdf)  Spain is a popular destination for volunteers in Europe. I’m sure most of you know typical things from Spain like Flamenco, Paella and Sangria. But in the north of Spain near the border to France you will find a different Spain or more precisely the Basque Country. The Basques don’t call themselves Spanish as they are convinced to be a proper country just near Spain ;) To get to know this region you should go to Aste Nagusia – The Great Week of Bilbao.

Fiesta – Fiesta – Fiesta Spanish people are known for their parties but beneath them the Basque are the Kings and Queens of celebrations. Almost every weekend you can find a fiesta in the region; in the big cities Vitoria (Gasteiz) – Bilbao (Bilbo) or San Sebastián (Donostia) but also in the villages around these big cities.
Aste Nagusia takes place in Bilbao but it‘s not only one party, it’s a thousand and more parties at the same tame in one place: The whole city of Bilbao - for 9 days and 10 nights! It seems like the whole country is coming to celebrate and enjoy that days with the Basque. The Great Week starts on the first saturday after the 15th of august with the so called “txupinazo” , the firing of a skyrocket where people get crazy and throw flour and eggs at each other. Just to show „yeah let’s get the party started“.  It takes place in front of the beautiful Arriaga theatre (antzokia) near the old town, which was build in 1890 and rebuilt in 1985 after a flooding. 

The most important women in this euphoric scenario is Marijaia, which means señora de las fiestas - lady of the celebration. She’s the symbol of Aste Nagusia since 1978 and she’s wearing traditional Basque clothes such as a wide dress and headscarf, like a countrywoman. When she shows up on the balcony of the Arriaga and lift up her arms – the crazyness begins! Since 1997 she also has her own song in euskera (Basque language) “Badator Marijaia” (Marijaia is coming) composed from the famous Basque musician Kepa Junkera: If you want to listen: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gQvX-jqANXw 
When you enter Bilbao during that time you will see “txosnas” (stands) one after the other with different kind of music, decoration, people – punks, folk, rock, pop it’s like a huge disco with different floors. You see people wearing Aste Nagusia „scarfs“ everywhere it’s a Basque tradition to wear them around the neck. What I liked the most about this fiesta is the cultural and social mixture. In a distance of not even 200 meters you can see so many different things and people – young and old, locals and foreigners come together to have a good time.
Tasty food and good wine is very important for Basque people so the bars and restaurants relocate their business on the streets, they use public place to put on their marquees, it's a paradise for foodies and gourmets. A famous Basque drink is Kalimotxo, it’s red wine mixed with cola, sounds awful but it’s delicious (a bit sweet).
The party is not only at night, during daytime it has also a lot to offer such as musicals, theatres, dances and there is also a gastronomic competition. Traditional or typical dishes from the Basque Country are for example bacalao al pil pil (codfish) or marmitako (tuna stew with vegatables). The Basque cuisine is among best in the world and has lots of restaurants with Michelin-Stars.

You can also experience interesting Basque traditions during the Great Week for example: At day time it takes place a parade with the “Gigantes y Cabezudos” which are huge figures and big hats made of papier mâché. The tradition goes back to the Middle Ages and is also connected to the reconquest of the peninsula from the Arabs as symbol for the appearance of the citizens return back on the streets. In the old town you will also find “Gargantúa” a giant figure you go inside the mouth and you slide out of his a**, children love it!

During the celebrations it takes also place a encierro (bullfight) which I don’t like so much. Every night around 22:45 you can watch the fuegos (fireworks) and there are different concerts all around the city. The most famous bands perform on a big stage next to the Guggenheim museum at the riverside.
Aste Nagusia ends with the burning of the poor woman Marijaia. But next year she will be there again for the grand opening.

Come and find out and above al bebasque.